Eccles Pass

Distance: 9.5 miles RT
Elevation: 9,100 to 11,900 ft
Elevation gain: 2,800ft


Looking north from Eccles Pass
In July I won the lottery with a perfect "chamber of commerce" day in Summit County for a hike up to Eccles Pass. The trail was steep and very rocky right from the start and spends a good deal of time in the trees for the first three miles or so before opening up into wide meadow with peaks all around. The hills were green, the skies were blue and a light breeze blew in from the east. On days like this I pity the tourists who have to spend their vacation dollars to come here. Colorado is a wonderful place to live! Across the meadow, our destination was in view. It looked trivial to ascend to the pass, but after already completing significant elevation gain and distance get to this point, that last bit was steeper than it looked from below. Isn't that true for most things? The reward for that last up was well worth it however. The view over the pass toward the Gore Range is mythical in scope.


Looking up at Eccles Pass from meadow
The valley below is dotted with small tarns and one or two trails disappear into the distance enticing the hiker onward. It is possible to ascend to that valley from Silverthorne or do a shuttle route which could be very appealing. To the right of the valley I could see the route as it ascended through the trees, guarded on both sides by steep walls. The entrance framed the far slopes across from Silverthorne. Every tree on that distant hillside was dead from the bark beetle. The contrast was striking. Here was a pristine view and there, inscribed in Dante's prose, was the gate to a more hellish Colorado. I wonder how long it will take for every beautiful spot is consumed by the rust colored hues of death by Nature's unrelenting petulance? I stayed on the pass for an hour or so before commencing the grueling trek down. Why is it that the last two miles of a long hike seem so long? This is where a nice trail refuge with some refreshing snacks would have really boosted the spirits.

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Olga Kern Dazzles Denver

On Thursday, September 20th I attended the Colorado Symphony's opening night. I chose this night because Olga Kern, the first woman to win the Van Cliburn International Piano Competition in 30 years, was playing Rachmaninoff’s Rhapsody on the Theme of Paganini (Opus 43). I sat in the left dress circle so I could watch her hands. The experience was surreal. While the following description may sound unflattering, it is meant to highlight how exceptional Olga is.

I could only see Olga's left hand but since it zoomed around the keyboard so quickly, that is probably a good thing. I was aghast to observe that Olga's hand actually looked alien. I am talking alien abduction like alien. Her fingers are exceptionally long and have that ability to spread apart in a way that would require Vicodin in us mere mortals. The joints that connected her fingers to the rest of her hand must have been double jointed because they could arch in a way I did not think was anatomically possible. I keep looking at my own hand and back at hers and realized why I never took up piano. The sum total of these observations was a hand that looked twice as large as normal. It seemed to extend all the way to her forearm. I was mesmerized.

I confess that Rachmaninoff has not been my favorite composer but you have to admire his Rhapsody. It is so dramatic and contains some of the loveliest melodies in all of classical music. It is one of Olga's signature pieces, and she plays it with great emotion.

During intermission Olga signed CDs. She was very gracious if a bit otherworldly. I get the impression this was more cultural than innate shyness. Olga has the potential of being on of the true greats if she would only change her wardrobe. That calf hugging sequined red dress and stiletto heals were dazzling for sure but surely gave her insurance agent fits. I would not have been able to walk two feet in that get up let alone glide across a stage. I recommend she be wheeled out in a sequined wheel chair with those alien hands encased in cast until she is ready to play.

Any time Olga is in town, I recommend arranging to be abducted. The experience will be well worth it.

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Where are All the Trail Refuges?

Ok, so I am already diverging from Colorado hiking, but I have to confess that I am no longer a European hiking virgin. I just returned from a conference in France. On off days, I managed to get out and hike. Two miles up an incredibly scenic trail we came to our first refuge. I can't tell you how many times I would have killed for Starbucks with a view after some serious elevation gain. Here was a house complete with kitchen, umbrellas, picnic tables and beer! Beer every two miles? That could work! So if all of Europe is dotted with fantastic trails and refuge after refuge, why can't we adopt this in the US? Are we colonials just not civilized enough?

Would the State of Colorado attract more tourists if we provided pastries, sausages, and double espresso? Would someone out there in the blogosphere explain this to me!