Go John Trail: Cave Creek Recreation Area, AZ

Distance: 5.8 miles
Elevation: 2,200-2,500 ft
Elevation Gain: 300 ft
Critters: Rattlesnakes


A view looking east along the Go John trail
A couple of years ago I was laid off from my job so I blew some of my severance money and flew down to Arizona to lounge at a spa. Nearby was the Cave Creek Recreation Area. I rented a car and drove the short 10 miles to the trailhead. This was March, and the Sonoran desert was in full bloom. Besides wildflowers, March is mild with warm days and cool nights. Given that Colorado is often still snowy at this time of year, a jaunt down to Phoenix for some early wildflower gawking is not a bad idea. Toss in the spa and you have a nifty stress-relieving getaway. I am not sure what Phoenix has more of, cacti, golf courses, or spas. Surely, you can find one that meets your needs.


The first hill
This trail is a loop that will take you around some large rock formations as well as out into the desert expanses. The trail starts in the picnic area and starts out on a wide path that quickly narrows. There is a sharp ascent towards a picturesque saddle. From its “lofty” heights you have views to the south. From here the trail descends sharply and begins to meander through rolling hills and gullies. It will eventually circle back to where you began. There are a couple of off shoots, so if a trail map is available, bring one along so you don’t go traipsing off into the desert never to return. Sunscreen, a broad brimmed hat, and plenty of water are required for any desert hike.


Saguaro Cactus and flowers
The dominant floral species are Teddy-bear Cholla (Cylindropuntia bigelovii) and Saguaro Cactus (Carnegiea gigantean). These hardy desert dwellers make a wonderful tableau of shapes and sizes. Combine this with radiant blue skies and the eye-popping colors of the seasonal flowers and you have a photographers dream. Only the intense sunlight ruins this combination. If possible, head out at sunrise. I never manage to get out of bed that early but all the great photographers do.


The trail just after cresting the first hill
No matter where you go on travel, there is likely a trail nearby to explore. Expanding one’s horizons to include non-alpine zones is well worth the effort. Next time you are in Phoenix give this trail a try.


California Poppies

Ireland: Rock of Cashel

Looking up at Cashel and it defensible position

No trip to Ireland is complete without a stop at this unique ruin. A complex of fortresses and cathedrals, it is a hodgepodge of architecture covering many millennia. Home to king and bishop, it contains ruins, palaces, and a wonderful Celtic cross cemetery. It is located in County Tipperary in the south-central part of Ireland.

The round tower

The buildings sit atop a large upthrust of granite with dramatic views of the surrounding plain. It is easy to see why every noble and his brother wanted to live and defend the rock. It is the only high ground around. Unlike today’s interlopers, they did not scrape and rebuild but continually added on so that what remains is a tangle of grey stone only a tour guide can unravel.

The join between Cormac and the Cathedral

I confess I wandered about snapping pictures without a clear appreciation for what I was looking at. I just like ruins. Their antiquity reminds me how far we have come while at the same time their decay reminds me of the fleetingness of power, religious dogma, and wealth. The wonders of the Internet, however, will allow me to describe a few of the features.

Exterior of the Cathedral

Interior of the Cathedral

The 90 ft round tower, the oldest building and dates from 1100. The next oldest is the Chapel of King Cormac, which dates from 1134. This building stands out because its stone is a Rufus brown while the other buildings are slate gray. Still, it easy to miss this chapel since it dwarfed by the Cathedral built in 1270.

Celtic cross cemetery

Standing in this structure one senses the awe the common peasant must have gained by struggling to the top of this promontory and standing within the lofty environs of its sanctuary. Surely such a place would have felt divinely inspired. A brightening of the gray, dull existence of those whose only joy was the thought that heaven promised a better life. The crumbling stone and moss covered crosses tell a different, more painful story. All is dust and inconsequence. Had they known, would they have treated their overlords differently?

Another exterior view

Coming from Colorado, I could not help but enjoy the views of the surrounding plains. There are several younger ruins scattered about within cannon shot but there did not seem to be a way to get there. They stand out starkly against the sweet meadow grasses that are slowly reclaiming the ground on a scale invisible to the human eye.

Other posts from my trip to Ireland:

• Newgrange
• Dingle Pennisula
  

Ireland: Dingle Peninsula

The colorful boats and buildings of Dingle Ireland
The Dingle Peninsula in southwestern Ireland is a stark place where an unforgiving sea meets an unforgiving land. When the English ruled Ireland, they banished the locals to this zone of harsh and magnificent contrasts. Through tenacity and grit they managed to eke out a living by laboriously dragging sand and seaweed up onto the barren hillsides until they could at least farm the nefarious potato.


Sheep along the coast of Dingle Bay

Dingle coast
In April of 2005, I took my father to Ireland and we stayed in Dingle and drove its narrow byways. I don’t know who was more frightened, my father in the passenger seat or I in the drivers. My side of the very narrow road was bordered by the ubiquitous stone walls while on my father’s side there was the ever present trucks that have invaded this narrow world where traditional Ireland still reigns. A lot of screaming went on in our little car as each of us looked out our respective windows at imminent death.




The town of Dingle is a pleasant fishing village, colorful, and friendly. There are pubs, decent restaurants, and lots of salt air to refresh the senses. It was also significantly warmer than Dublin for which I was immensely grateful. You would think someone so intimately familiar with layering as I would have packed better, but I left my down jacket at home. I was more worried about rain and so I dragged along a softshell instead. This was a mistake. I had forgotten how chilly a damp climate can be even when the mercury reads a moderate number.


Blasket Island in the sun
This reminiscence is the result of watching an episode of Rick Steve’s Europe. I opened up the folder on Ireland and started poking through the photographs. Too much time has passed and too little booking keeping has prevented me from labeling each of these with their precise location. Most were taken along at the far edge of R559 between Glanfahan and Dunquin. Hopefully, they will give you a general sense of the area. The island off shore is the Great Blasket Island. Even harsher than the mainland, the government forcibly removed the residents back in the 50s. You can take a boat out to see the ruins, but we did not do this.


Blasket Islands in clouds
As with most travel, it is impossible to see everything in a short 10-day vacation and I regret not exploring up the coast towards Gallway. My father is not a hiker, either, so I will just have to consider returning to the area so I can stroll over the verdant hills. The rocky trails of Colorado should adequately prepare me for the conditions! If the topography of western Ireland appeals to you, I would consider flying into Shannon and staying on that coast. There is much to see.

Other posts from my trip to Ireland:

• Newgrange
• Rock of Cashel
  

Durango to Silverton Railroad

The train stops in several scenic spots so you can photograph the train itself.
It is August 16th and the high today is only 50 degrees so I can’t help but think of Fall and my trip to Ouray two Septembers ago. I flew my parents out and my mother and I rode the Durango and Silverton Railroad one way to Silverton. This is another one of those quintessential Colorado experiences. Fall is a great time to ride the train because there are spots of showy aspens all along the route. Dress warmly though if you go this time of year. While the coaches are enclosed, the gondolas are open air and at times I was wearing three layers, gloves, and a warm hat. A thermos of hot chocolate will make the trip even better. Seats are assigned so you have to choose your car before hand.


Rocks along the Animas
The D&SNGRR, which stands for the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, was completed in 1882 and was initially used to haul silver and gold out of the mountains. Narrow gauge rails, which are three feet apart, are easier to lay around tight mountain curves. You will see on the route that there are some tight curves indeed! Interestingly, standard rail gauge is 56.5 inches, which was the width of Roman chariots. Now that is a standard worth keeping. And I thought the English foot (12 inches) was a bad measurement!

We stayed in Durango the night before our trip and it poured like it is today, which is probably why I am reminiscing. Since the train departs at 8:15 AM, this was not a bad choice. We were fortunate to have my father pick us up in Silverton because at 18 mph, the train trip takes 3.5 hours. Going back would have been too tedious for me. There is a motor coach option at certain times of the year, however, and I would recommend that for the variety if nothing else.


It is hard to identify milestones along the route but you can google the animas river since it tracks this pretty well. At times the train is right along side the river bed and at other times it is high above with the Animas rushing through a sculpted gorge below.


My favorite photo from the trip. You can sense the change in the seasons between the snow, color, and low hanging clouds.
The D&SNGRR is a history lesson, a kitschy tourist trap, and a wonderful way to see some stunning Colorado scenery all rolled into one. For train buffs this is an absolute must. Everyone else should do it too. Just get your tickets well in advance. Prime time fills up quickly.

King's Crown

Mature King's Crown
King's crown has two scientific names, Rhodiola integrifolia and Sedum rosea. This benefits a plant that thrives in both moist meadows and dry open areas. This specimen was found near a stream along Mayflower Gulch.You can recognize it by its short, succulent leaves that grow upwards in a tight column. It grows in sub-alpine to alpine environments.


Young King's Crown. Note the succulent leaves.

Quandary Peak

Distance: 6.75 miles RT
Elevation: 10,850-14,265 ft
Elevation Gain: 3,450 ft

Quandary Peak (14,265 ft) viewed from the East Ridge
Technically, Quandary Peak is one of the easier 14ers. There is no large scree dome at the top to navigate and minimal exposure. There are also large rock steps placed frequently along the route so that at times I felt like I was on a Stairmaster instead of a mountain. I have long legs and was able to easily navigate these steps. My two companions were shorter and these step-ups were more difficult. Still, since they have redone the trail and laid gravel down, I would say Quandary Peak is actually harder than Mt. Bierstadt, which is several peaks higher on the difficulty scale. This is all subjective of course. Which is harder, navigating a large boulder-like scree pile or descending for 2 hours on loose gravel? While I was happy for my ankle high boots, there were many hikers wearing running shoes. The slip potential was so high, I am not sure that is the best choice but that again is subjective. I know folk who prefer running shoes saying they are more limber, maneuverable, and more padded.

The lower part of the trail is in the trees.

The elevation gain on Quandary is nothing to laugh at, but given a nice day without pressure from the weather, anyone who has either exercised regularly or who is very determined can achieve the summit. As it was, two flatlanders who had just flow in the night before, zoomed up the trail ahead of us. As I stopped to take pictures, they grew steadily smaller as the distance between us grew. If these folks can hike this “hill”, what is your excuse? Climbing a 14er is the quintessential Colorado experience. Everyone should try it at least once in their life.

Northstar Mountain viewed from the left side of Quandary's ridge

The trail for Quandary begins in the trees. It takes you to the right of the ridge, close to the McCullough Gulch side but then winds back towards the Blue Lakes side. At one point the trees open up with a great view of the summit in the distance. On a closer slope you can see a trail cut into the hillside. This is actually the old trail. The new trail goes around the left side of this hill and steeply ascends the far side to the top of the ridge rather than traversing the broad flat top of the ridge itself. I am not sure why they rerouted the trail this way. It may have been concerns over erosion control.

Monte Cristo Gulch and Blue Lakes
The views of Blue Lakes are very dramatic as you near 12,000 ft. Monte Cristo Gulch is bordered to the south by a jagged ridgeline that joins North Star Mountain to the east and Wheeler Mountain to the west. The damn at the end of the Gulch is the starting point for the West Ridge route up Quandary. This route is much more exposed and should only attempted by more experienced climbers. Just last week a renowned chef from Missouri died on Quandary on this route. Earlier in June another climber nearly died after a horrible tumble down the Monte Cristo couloir.

Quandary summit viewed from the left

If you can take you eyes off the view and look upwards, you can see the top of the East Ridge above you. This ridge sits at 13,150 ft, so by the time you reach it, pat yourself on the back and be aware that oxygen deprivation is going to increase significantly.

Heading up to the ridge at 13,150 ft

From Hwy 9, you can see this ridge and the summit beyond. From that angle, you can see that there is a large drop and rise between them. I was afraid we were going to have to descend a significant distance before rising again but the ridge continues on the narrow left side without a loss of elevation. From there the summit is one mile and 1,100 ft of elevation gain away. It looks worse than it is. The trail, still filled with gravel, but occasionally dirt, winds its way up and over small piles of scree. Only on the lower, and first pile, did I need to pull myself up occasionally with my hands. This is the zone of walk 30 yards, breathe, breathe, breathe…repeat. This area is not technically difficult but is frustratingly slow. I was not able to find a pace at which I could just keep going without stopping. Elevation does make a difference. At 9,000 ft this sort of grade would not wind me.

On the East Ridge, a little farther up

On the narrow portion of the ridge

I have had friends tell me that they dislike Quandary Peak because of this ridge. Each succeeding pile of scree blocks the upper portions of the ridge and gives the illusion that it will be the last. Alas, you will be able to see the last pile and the summit just off to the left so until you do, don’t be fooled and just keep putting one foot in front of the other.

First large scree pile on the upper 1,000 ft

The last false summit

As I mentioned before, there is no large boulder field at the top of Quandary. You can stroll across its top with ease. The views to the west are by far the most dramatic. You can clearly see Mount of the Holy Cross and Notch Top in the distance. Closer in, just across the West Ridge is the Fletcher Mountain and the backside of Mayflower Gulch. To the north is the cone-shaped Crystal Peak. To the south you can clearly view Mt. Democrat, Lincoln, and Bross, and can even see some of the trails that connect these three. On that massif, there is a sharp decent from Democrat up to Lincoln that looks unappealing. The route from Lincoln to Bross looks much more smooth. That will probably be next summers trip.

The summit is in sight.

The journey down from the summit was an exercise in drudgery. This is not unique to Quandary but I do think the level of focus required to survive the gravel made it worse. I had forgotten how much rock there was on the route until I had to descend through it. When ascending you tend to ignore this sort of detail while consumed with summit fever. I was almost joyous to see dirt again.

View from the summit looking northwest towards Crystal Peak

View from the summit looking at a hiker coming up the West Ridge

The trip through the trees was different on the way down. The sun was high in the sky, and the grasses both on the slope and down the neighboring valleys were verdant green. We had been blessed by excellent weather, and could have slept in a little if we had wanted to. Unfortunately, you just can’t trust Colorado’s weather so it is better to start early regardless of the forecast. As it was, by the time we were down in Breckenridge feeding on a well-deserved burger, large storm clouds had begun to form over the summit.

Back down, looking at the green hills of Summit County

I would not recommend Quandary as your first 14er, but if you plan to do a few, it should be on your list. It has a more mountaineering feel to it than Bierstadt, Grays, or Torreys without being technical. It will give you a fantastic sense of accomplishment and a great calf workout. It is still a mountain, and every mountain has its dangers however. We saw people in cut off tops with no sunscreen. We saw babies in backpacks with no sunscreen or glasses. Take Quandary seriously folks. Safety, fitness, and standard preventive measures are essential on Quandary and on any Colorado trail. There is no Starbucks up here nor is there a five minute paramedic response. As always, treat the Wilderness with the respect it deserves.

Note: Jan 2008, I have a nice broad view of Quandary Peak on my Baker's Tank Snowshoe

Twin Sisters

Distance: 7.4 miles RT from the trailhead, 8 miles RT from the lower parking lot
Elevation: 8,930 ft (lower parking lot) or 9,090 ft (trailhead) – 11,430 ft
Elevation gain: 2,500 ft (if starting from the lower parking lot) or 2,340 ft measured from the trailhead
Critters: Chipmunks and Squirrels galore plus a loud and obnoxious church group



Twin Sisters viewed from Hwy 7
Twin Sisters is a great trail that has elevation gain, panoramic views, and proximity to the Front Range. Its large rocky summit, with multiple piles of skree, will make you feel like you have climbed a 14er without busting a lung. We chose it today because the weather forecast was predicting 80% chance of thunderstorms before noon in Summit County. Such a doomcast put a damper on our high altitude plans. As it was, we were only able to spend a half an hour on the summit before a huge storm started to build and we decided to descend.


Lily Lake
Don’t be fooled, Twin Sisters is firmly within the boundaries of Rocky Mountain National Park so all park regulations apply. My two dogs were most unhappy today to learn that one of these regulations prohibited their participation. They do not like being left at home when a trail beckons.


Longs massif viewed from the trail. From left to right is Mt. Meeker (13,911 ft), Longs Peak (14,255 ft), and Mt. Lady Washington (13,281 ft).
You can park in the lot across from Lily Lake, which has a bathroom, or drive up the road a bit towards the trailhead. There is not a parking lot per say there, except on the rutted right side of the road, but if saving elevation is important, then don’t be fooled by the lot down below.


A typical section of tree "encrusted" trail
My memories of my last trip up Twin Sisters are vague. I climbed it two years ago and was chased off by a massive thunderstorm, so I did not see much of the trail besides rocks and trees, lots of trees. It turns out that the trip is more pleasant than I remember. While I hate being in the trees, this trail has some phenomenal views of the Meeker, Longs, and Mt. Lady Washington massif right across the valley. The pine, spruce, and fir forest is thin, which creates a sense of airiness. Finally, the entire route is strewn with angular rocks that were coated with chartreuse lichens. They were so bright, it reminded me of my visit to Graceland. Long live chartreuse.


Rocks and green turf near treeline
Despite its daunting elevation gain, the route is not difficult. The ascent is accomplished through a long series of switchbacks with few large step-ups. Very little quadricep action is required. Flatlanders in tennis shoes were easily navigating the trail although I was glad for the ankle support of my boots since I slid off the small, angular rocks several times during the day, particularly on the decent.


The view from treeline looking towards the ridge
There is a very interesting transition near treeline when large twisted rock formations come into view. These formations are bordered by stones jutting out of the turf and by Limber Pines, which have been sculpted by the wind into bent, twisted epagoges. Unfortunately, my picture of these trees did not turn out, so you will just have to go and view them for yourself.


Looking back down the trail
Just beyond these trees, there is a portal into the world of sun, wind, and stone. Within the span of two footsteps you suddenly travel from a forested realm into a long bare rock field. You might want to turn around here to make sure the doorway is still there. I half expected to find a dragon perched nearby or at least an ogre or two. Instead, I found a large group of kids from some local church group. A far more frightening manifestation and darn it if I hadn’t left my broad sword at home. They, and their adult guides were as noisy as a flock of Griffins. They definitely made our time on the summit very unpleasant.


Another shot looking back down the trail
It is 0.75 miles from this transition line to the summit. The views of Estes Park and beyond will make you stumble as you try to navigate the rocks and ogle the view at the same time. A long pitch along the ridge and a series of short switchbacks takes you to a large saddle surrounded by two large domes of skree. The one to the right, next to the park’s radio tower, is where most people end up. The views there of the Longs massif will boggle the mind. We ate our lunch there and tried to ignore the screaming meemies, who had perched themselves nearby. Did I mention that I also forgot to bring my Bazoka?


View of the summit
It was amazing to watch the clouds build around us. At one point, directly over the lower dome, a large cloud formed. We could actually see tendrils of air curl and wind their ways upwards only to be consumed by the growing monster. After watching this show for a while, we decided to head down since perhaps there was a dragon on the mountain after all. I have a theory about Twin Sisters. It has a large, exposed block of skree, and I wonder if the heated rocks provide extra lift near its summit. Even when I have not been on the summit, I have seen large storms form right on top of it. Who knows if this is true, but the wary hiker of Twin Sisters should get an extra early start.


View of the Longs massif from the summit
If you have the chance, visit this trail. You won’t need your park pass but be sure to bring a few weapons of mass destruction since it does seem to be popular with folks who look like they just stumbled out of the Winnebago. You would think that the altitude gain would deter most of these visitors, but it does not. If you happen to know of the secret password that will close the door while the dragon is thundering overhead, please let me know.


Looking northwest from the summit