Colorado National Monument: Rim Rock Drive

Length: 23 miles


The Colorado National Monument is one of those must do’s for any Coloradoan. So for all you Denverites, get thy hinnies on I-70 and GO WEST. To sweeten the experience, I suggest a little Colorado wine tasting while there. Note of caution…the Rim Rock Drive is precipitous. Save the wine tasting for AFTER the drive.

The monument is part of the greater Colorado Plateau. This expanse includes the better-known features of Bryce and Grand Canyon as well as Arches National Park. This plateau fills the void between the Rocky Mountains and the Great Basin in Nevada. The average elevation of the plateau is around 5,000 ft so all you Denverites will feel at home.


Many of the overlooks in the Monument gaze out on 2,000 ft of sheer rock faces or detached rock towers. Like the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, the primary process at work in the Colorado National Monument is erosion. The accumulated soils have made colorful bands in the rock, and the varying hardnesses of the rock have resulted in both pillars and deep canyons.


The photos in this post are a year old. The weather was delightful and the park uncrowded. Alas, I had the dogs with me so I was unable to hike into any of the canyons, but the drive was worth doing regardless. I do remember that finding the entrance to the Monument was not easy. You can get to it from either side and there were no signs from the freeway. I would recommend reviewing the National Park Service’s directions to the Monument before heading out.

Capital Grill: Get Religion

I discovered religion at the Capital Grill. This is not some self-depriving, woe is me religion, but a full blown hedonistic religion like they use to have in the good ole days. I have eaten enough steak in high-end steak places around the world to be uniformly disappointed by all the hype. Well, let me witness, the steaks at the Capital Grill are not hype.

We went to the Capital Grill with our fine dining club. It was also a birthday and the table was festively strewn with miniature Italian candies. I saw another table covered with rose petals so these guys know how to throw a party. Our group was large, so we were not seated in the main, more masculine area, but instead were seated in a side room. Given the clientele, I would have preferred a more prominent table. I hate being shoved in a corner.

Knowing that our entrees would resemble the continent of Africa, we skipped the appetizer and went straight for the jugular. Bring on the beef! I had the Porcini rubbed Delmonico with aged balsamic vinaigrette. This is a popular selection and although I hate to blend in with the herd, its popularity is well deserved. I kid you not it was melting in my mouth and was as smooth as fois gras. The flavoring was a delightful surprise as well. Somehow my subsequent attempts to dump Balsamic Vinegar onto my steaks at home have not come close.

The Capital Grill, which is a chain oh purists out there, is a typical steak place in that everything is al a carte. We ordered the Lobster Mac & Cheese, some potatoes, as well as the Asparagus sans Hollandaise for our sides. There was plenty to share. One member of our party ordered the Kona encrusted dry aged sirloin, which I confess I did not think was as tasty as the Delmonico. He raved and drooled, however, which shows you there is something out there for everyone.

Here’s a technical tidbit on the aging of steaks. Dry aging occurs in the refrigerator before the meat is cut. The time can vary between 10 and 28 days. Dry aging sucks all the moisture out of the steak, which concentrates the flavor and gives it a distinctive taste. It also tenderizes the meat by making it “rot” in a delightfully artesian way. Wet aging also tenderizes the meat but since it is vacuum packed in its own juices you don’t get the signature concentration of flavors. The majority of the cuts at the Capital Grill are dry aged, so their flavors pack a punch.

Our wine for the evening was a 2003 Crozes Hermitage by Paul Jaboulet. A straight Shiraz, this intense wine complimented the steaks wonderfully and did not cost more than the food, which is always a good thing. Our waiter was very knowledgeable about both the wine and the restaurant, regaling us with tales of cows gone bad, corporate mergers, and other sundry tidbits of gossip. We never felt neglected.

Given our barbaric appetites up to this point it is surprising we could even consider dessert but it was a birthday after all. We ordered the fresh berries and cream, which was light and refreshing and did not put us over the edge into a food coma even though at that point almost anything would.

This trip to the Capital Grill took place in April so you can see I am woefully behind in my restaurant reviews. Too many hikes to rave about I guess. This month’s 5280 magazine lists Denver’s Top of the Town and for best steak the editors picked Elway’s while the readers picked the Capital Grill. Their review prompted me to get off my well-fed tail and write up my impressions. Now I am going to have to check out Elway’s and do a taste comparison. In the meantime, you can’t go wrong with the Capital Grill as long as you are willing to pay homage to the deities of hedonism. Health nuts that don’t know how to enjoy themselves once in a while need not join in the revival. I for one will be leading the chorus. Now I know why those choral outfits are tent-like!

Mills Lake

Distance: 5 miles round trip
Elevation: 9,240 ft-9,940 ft
Elevation Gain: 700 ft
Critters: Hordes of Tourists

Mills Lake

I often neglect poor Mills Lake as I blow past it on my way to Black Lake. It is a destination in and of itself for many of the tourists who visit Rocky Mountain National Park every year. At five miles it is not a killer but it provides some level of bragging rights for the hordes of Texans and other flatlanders that descend on the park every year.

(On the left: Typical Trail Segment). This year we ended up at Mills Lake by default because the trail to Black Lake was still covered in snow. I am beginning to sound like a broken record every time I say that this season…sigh.

The trail to Mills Lake begins at the park’s shuttle park-n-ride across from the Glacier Gorge Campground. Don’t even bother heading up to the trailhead yourself unless you are willing to fight for a spot and be situated by 6 AM. This shuttle park-n-ride is a significant improvement to the park. Its expansion was completed sometime back in 2004 along with an 8.2M rework of Bear Lake Road. The one downside of the park-n-ride is that there is no water, so fill up before you come. If you start early enough, the wait time for a shuttle will be less. Due to some folks who got lost on their way to the park, we ended up getting on the shuttle an hour later than expected (around 11 AM). The hordes had arrived and there was a very long line of tourists waiting for their glimpse of Alberta Falls. Be prepared to embrace, literally, your fellow man if you arrive late.

Ok, I am snobbish about Rocky Mountain National Park. Hike more than 3 miles up a trail and the number of people you will see falls off exponentially. Most visitors never make it to Black Lake, Sky Pond, Flat Top, Hallet Peak, or Andrew’s Tarn. These are all worthy destinations if you can stand being part of the herd at the beginning.

(On the right: Entering Glacier Gorge). Once at the Glacier Gorge trailhead, the route to Mills Lake climbs quickly on a wide National Park-like trail. If you are only going to Mills be sure to spend a little time at Alberta Falls. Again, I tend to blow past it on my way up and this time was the first time I had actually climbed up the rocks near the falls. This year’s runoff is amazing and the falls are spectacular, albeit at an angle so you never get a full frontal view of them.

Beyond Alberta Falls the trail continues upwards with some expansive views down the valley. It then enters Glacier Gorge itself, which on this trip felt like a line at Disney Land there were so many people plodding up its narrow shelf. Take a moment to stop watching the rocks at your feet here. The gorge is something to remark.

The trail will come to a junction a mere 0.5 miles from the lake. You can pop up to the Loch Vale from here or continue to Mills. Doing both in one day would certainly be doable. From this junction, the trail is relatively flat on its way to the lake.

View from the far end of Mills Lake

There are several things to note at Mills Lake. On the right just as you come up is a sheer wall of rock that drips with water, stains, and mosses. Nearby is a field of dead trees, which make a stark landmark for the lake in winter. A little farther on is a very large flat rock suitable for a large group lunch. One would think the ever-industrious Park Service put this rock there but alas it was the far more industrious Mother Nature. In the distance you will see a large boulder perched near the water. This glacial remnant seems to have a magnetic quality. You will see a swarm of anglers and small children orbiting its sphere of influence.

The trail continues around the left side of the lake and a stroll to its end will reveal the plateau that holds Black Lake. Unless you are just looking for the quintessential picnic spot, do wander along the lake. Your legs will enjoy the additional exercise and the views will be rewarding.

Looking down on Bear Lake Road

I gained a new appreciation for Mills Lake on this trip. It is amazing how your perspective can change when you stop to linger and admire what is around you instead of viewing all these million dollar views as just a means to an end.

Estes Cone

Distance: 6.6 miles RT
Elevation 9,425-11,002 ft
Elevation Gain: 2,023 ft with additional ups and down


View from the summit
Estes Cone is just that, a large volcanic remnant with a cap of flat-ish rock. We decided to hike this trail because the high country is still covered in snow and we needed both elevation gain and elevation. Estes Cone also has the advantage of being close to the Front Range and in possession of some excellent views of Mt. Meeker, Longs Peak, and Mt. Ypsilon not to mention Estes Park.

There are two ways to get to Estes Cone, one from the Longs Peak trailhead and the other from Lilly Lake trailhead via Storm Pass. On this trip we started at the Longs Peak trailhead but on our way back we accidentally turned onto Storm Pass (more details about that later). I can tell you that the views from Storm Pass are much better since the trail is about 300 ft higher than the other. If we hike this peak again, we will go via Storm Pass. According to the trail signs, it is only an additional 0.5 miles. I don’t know about any additional elevation gain, however.

The down side of the Estes Cone trail is that it is in the trees most of the time. There is one nice meadow crossing, one creek, and one old cabin. Other than that though it is trees, trees, and more trees. The trail is easy to moderate except for the last 0.7 miles, which ascends straight up the cone. Here the trail switches from dirt and rock to almost entirely rock. In fact the slope and the trail look so much alike that the Rangers have interspersed cairns every 10 feet or so to guide hikers upwards. While rocky, this pitch is short and by no means unassailable. On this trip, the sky was turning dark and we felt pressured to get to the top as quickly as possible. Not the best option when trail finding.

The summit of the cone consists of four to five rocky outcroppings. The hiker can choose to climb to the highest, which is located to the southwest, or scramble up the closest. On this trip we chose this option again because of the threatening weather. The views are just as grand.


Estes Cone viewed from the parking lot
Unfortunately, we were only able to stay on the summit for about a half hour before a storm over trail ridge road finally swooped down upon us and we had to bolt. Since it was before noon, we were not happy to be turned away from the views so early. While it thundered periodically, the rain never made it to the ground so the storm turned out to be a bust, but above tree line you can’t second guess Mother Nature.

We were boogying down the hillside at a quick clip so it was not difficult to see how we got onto the wrong trail. The trail junction between Storm Pass and Estes Cone is poor going up and worse coming down. There is a large pine tree between the trail and an extremely large cairn. Before the tree, Storm Pass shoots off to the left. To continue to the Longs Peak trailhead, you have to go around the tree, around the cairn and up a trail on which the trail signs face away from the descender. Not ideal. It took us about a half hour of cruising through the trees before we figured it out. Back tracking up hill is never fun but anytime you get off your route back tracking is the most appropriate thing you can do but it is also the least likely. Studies have shown that back tracking is rare. Most people feel the need to keep moving forward, which often makes things worse.

Everyone should climb Estes Cone at least once. The perspective gained of Meeker and Longs, which normally blend into one large massif, is both pleasing and valuable. The twisted shape of the pines on the upper slopes of the cone is intriguingly eerie. The summit is worth the monotony of the trees particularly when there are few other options. It is going to be a short alpine season this year. Sigh.

Mountain Goats!

How I envy the Mountain Goat (Oreamnos americanus). Mother Nature has equipped them with all the mountain equipment they need to thrive in a high alpine environment where I have to take out stock in REI. For starters, they have a double coat, the inner one being a dense fur and the outer one being long hollow hairs. This haute couture is rated to -50F. Next time one of your buff friends says he does not need to layer, just throw the Mountain Goat in his face. These bad boys invented technical fabrics and are stylish to boot.


Speaking of boots, how much money did you spend on your last pair? Well, I wish I had the Mountain Goat’s feet. Their toes are padded for extra grip, they have a dewclaw that also allows them to cling to cliff faces that only the hardiest rock climber would dare ascend, and their hooves are cloven, which allows them to spread and grip. Take that Spiderman!

Did you know that Mountain Goats are not native to Colorado? Experts believe that the farthest south they naturally roamed was southern Wyoming. They were introduced into the state back in 1947 to provide game for hunters. In 1993 though, the Colorado Division of Wildlife made them naturalized citizens and declared them “native”. I wonder how many of the people sporting those “native” bumper stickers are doing so on similarly shady circumstances!


Despite their long beards and curved black horns, Mountain Goats are really not goats. They are actually closer to antelope and cattle. They spend their entire life on one mountain but will occasionally come down from their precipitous heights to seek out mineral licks. I think that is why I was able to get such great pictures of these goats. There was a mineral lick in the cleft of a rock that was drawing them down. When not sucking on rocks, however, Mountain Goats eat grasses, herbs, sedges, ferns, moss, lichen, twigs, and if you are not careful your topo map. And you say they are not goats…hmmm.


Bad boys of the mountain lounging on a shelf above the mineral lick
Sighting a Mountain Goat in Colorado is a blessed event. There are two prominent herds, one on Mt. Evans and another in the Chicago Basin. My envy of Mountain Goats extends to their choice of Colorado real estate. So get out there and explore Colorado and maybe you’ll be blessed too…Yodel-a yodel-a yodel-a-hee hoo!

Quandary Falls

Distance: 2.6 miles RT
Elevation: 11,100 to 11,700 ft
Elevation Gain: 600 ft
Critters: Marmots


Quandary Falls. Playing with the exposure did not help much with all the snow and sun glare.

The Quandary Falls trail is a mess. There are trees down everywhere and there are still drifts of snow covering the trail or melting into bogs. Near the falls themselves was clear evidence of a recent avalanche. Whole pines have been uprooted and others laid over like dominoes. The ground was either rocks or tree roots twisted into a less than benign version of an enchanted forest. Don’t attempt this short but scenic trail unless you don’t mind bushwhacking and getting yourself wet. We chose this trail because I was in Breckenridge for a conference and it is close by and doable after work. The timing of the conference is always a bit early for high-altitude trails but it is hard to resist the pull of the tundra after a long winter.




Avalanche evidence just below the falls
Quandary Falls is located in McCullough Gulch on the north side of Mt. Quandary (14,265 ft) and nestled beneath Pacific Peak (13,998 ft). You get to it by driving to the south of Quandary and heading back past the summit trailhead and down into the gulch itself. Note that at one point the road splits. Stay to the left and park at the gate.

The trail begins steeply but the views of the range to the east increase as you rise. After about a half of a mile, the views disappear as the trees begin to close in. The falls are a broad cascade and can be gained via several social trails. They are surrounded by granite outcroppings and shrubbery and are backed by the summit of Mt. Quandary itself. This year there was still a large ice sheet covering the stream that both my dogs raced out on. It was obvious that the whole thing could collapse at any moment and getting them back on terra firma was a nerve-wracking experience involving a great deal of shouting.

In years past I have climbed above the falls, but this year we had already spent so much time hacking our way through the trees that continuing on was not appealing. This was a fortunate decision, because we stumbled across a herd of Mountain Goats on the way back to town that we would have otherwise not seen.

Give this trail a chance if you are staying in Breckenridge, but wait until later in the season i.e. late July to at least have a chance of staying on the trail. The views will not disappoint and the wildflowers should be spectacular.


Looking east just before descending back down to the car

Colorado Pika

Ever been harassed a Pika (Ochotona princeps)? Don’t let their diminutive, guinea pig sized body fool you; these alpine dwelling rodents are feisty. Living in the nooks and crannies of rocks, they exhibit a shrill, piping cry whenever a hiker or dog nears their protective den. Related to rabbits and hares, they have short, rounded ears and no tail. I think they were put on earth to confound my dog’s, dare I say it, dog sized brain. With seemingly Machiavellian glee they shriek, peek, and hide giving my dog no end of grief. He knows something is up there in those sharp rocks. He can smell them, he can occasionally see them but he can’t get to them. The same thing goes for large predators. The Pika can taunt them too with relative impunity. Weasels and martins are another story. These flexible hunters can wiggle their way into the Pika’s rocky haven.


As the pictures in this post attest, Pikas eat greenery and will store up large mounds of verdant meadow grasses for the long winter. Since they shed their fur in both spring and fall, the Pika always looks a little scruffy. Still, with all those whiskers and rodent-ish gnawing on blades of grass who can resist these little terrors of the tundra?

Cascade Falls (Indian Peaks Wilderness)

Distance 9.4 miles RT
Elevation: 8,345 to 9,580 ft
Elevation Gain: 1,320 ft
Critters: Moose


Glacier Lilies
Cascade Falls is a long hike to several of the most beautiful falls I have seen in Colorado. The photos in this post do little to capture their sheer intensity and drama as they roared and tumbled in chaotic abandon. For the waterfall junkie out there, this is a must do destination.

There are two sets of Cascade Falls on the west side of the Indian Peaks Wilderness. We went to the southern set. The northern set is within the boundaries of Rocky Mountain National Park and can be reached by a 6 to 7 mile round trip journey.


Monarch Lake
The trail to Cascade Falls begins at the Monarch Lake trailhead, which is south of Lake Granby. Note that some guides will tell you to turn on Forest Service Road 125. This road is actually labeled Arapahoe Bay Road. It is not until you turn in and travel 50 yards or so that the road is labeled 125.

Monarch Lake is in itself a pleasant destination. There were many fishermen lining the damn and there is a 3.9-mile hike around the lake itself that looks worth doing. The Cascade Falls trail follows the shoreline for 0.8 miles so you’ll get some lakeside views. It then officially enters the Indian Peaks Wilderness at 1.25 miles.

There was so much variety and water on this trail to tantalize the senses that even though it was in the trees for much of the way, we were perfectly entertained. Going at the height of spring run off did not hurt. Buchanan and Cascade creeks were roaring and we knew the falls would be spectacular because of it.

The trail description we had found for this trail mentioned several water crossings and given the state of the rivers we were trepiditious that we would not be able to get across. Fortunately, all of the bridges over the rivers were quite stout. Two are cement and wood bridges and two are doublewide split log bridges with substantial rock islands in the middle. The crossings were a piece of cake.

There was a bit of mud on the trail due to the recent snowmelt but this reveled the tracks of a mother moose and the smaller tracks of her calf. We talked to a Ranger briefly and they mentioned that Moose traverse the entire area and do not confine themselves to the marshy areas around the lakes and meadows of the region. We did not see a Moose on the trail itself, but did see several on our way home.

There were lots of milestones along the way to help us gauge our mileage. I have already mentioned the wilderness boundary above. The first bridge is at 2.2 miles, the intersection with the Buchanan Trail is 3.2 miles, and the second bridge is at 3.3 miles. Just past this bridge is a small-unnamed fall that shoots through a narrow canyon. From here the trail rises sharply and gradually ascends into a broad valley bordered on the left by Thunderbolt Peak (11,938) and a long ridgeline. The main, highly overused section of Indian Peaks lies on the other side of that ridgeline, which caused us to snicker to ourselves. Here we were on a trail with hardly any people while just “over there” were mobs of Front Rangers trampling the wildflowers.


Looking east at Thunderbolt Peak and ridge
There are three falls that make up Cascade Falls. Each one is farther and higher up than the last. If you can’t possibly go any further, the first fall is a worthwhile destination in itself.
There is a cascade just below the first fall that twists sharply to the left on a broad shelf that was covered in a colony of Glacier Lilies (Erythronium grandiflorium). Glacier Lilies arrive soon after the snow melts along the banks of streams or in sub-alpine meadows.

The first fall (4.2 miles, 9,340 ft) is tall and shoots outward from a wall of rock into a large pool. You can walk right up to this fall and gaze at it front the front and the side. I realized after playing with my photos from this trip that taking pictures of waterfalls is not easy. The brilliant whiteness of the water, contrasted with the dark rock surrounding them threw off the exposure.


First falls


Water torrent


Playing with shutter speed

The second fall (4.4 miles, 9.440 ft) is more of a cascade, reminiscent of the Calypso Cascades in the Wild Basin region of Rocky Mountain National Park. This year, with so much water, the cascades were practically hidden from view by the torrent of white foam. There is a large flat rock in front of the falls eminently suitable for a picnic lunch.


Second falls
The third fall (4.7 miles, 9,580 ft) is up a steep pitch and across the second and final hune-log bridge. Look back at this point and you will see that you are at the very top of the second falls and can see the lip where the water flows over the edge. Beyond the bridge, the trail to the third falls is very rocky. There were several snow banks that we slogged through and the trail was disguised as a creek flowing with bone chilling snowmelt. As with most falls, we heard the roar before be saw the water. Cutting off trail to another, frat party sized, chunk of rock revealed the third falls. This one looks like a combination of the first two. A sharp drop directs the flow of the upper portions and then turns sharply towards the viewpoint and spreads out somewhat into a wider area.


Third falls
Where to lunch may be the hardest decision you’ll make on this trail. There are so many places to lounge, and each fall is so distinctive that is hard to choose. The trip back was long and monotonous, like all long hikes, and we were heartily glad to reach the car. If you love waterfalls, this trail will not disappoint and may just become you private piece of heaven.


Lake Granby

Silver Dollar and Murray Lakes: Short but Scenic

Distance: 1.6 miles one way to Silver Dollar, an additional 0.6 miles to Murray for a 4.4 mile RT
Elevation: 11,600 to 12,400 ft
Elevation Gain: 800 ft
Critters: dogs and anglers


Silver Dollar Lake looking east

At least once a year we try to pop up to Silver Dollar Lake off of Guanella Pass. You won’t burn off last night’s overindulgence on this hike, but will get a chance to enjoy three alpine lakes nestled within the jagged rocks of a couple of Colorado’s lesser known peaks: Square Top Mountain, Argentine Peak, and Mt. Wilcox. We have hiked this trail in late May, July, and September. On the early season outing, there were still large drifts of snow that impeded our progress with occasional waist deep post holing. I would recommend waiting until late July or August to try this trail. While I have yet to time it right, this trail is supposed to be excellent for wildflowers at that time of the year. In autumn the grasses are golden brown, which creates both texture and contrast with the still green shrubbery. The photos shown here were from September 2005.


Naylor Lake from higher up the trail
The road to Silver Dollar Lake begins near the Guanella Pass campground, nine miles up from Georgetown. The road itself can be very rough and a high clearance vehicle is advised. You can park one mile below the trailhead, but the route up would be a mundane jeep road through the trees.


Silver Dollar Lake looking southwest
There are three lakes on this trail. The first and largest is Naylor Lake. It is privately owned, and hikers are requested and advised to stay on the trail, which skirts the property. The trail quickly rises above this lake providing the hiker with ample views. Silver Dollar Lake is the second lake and the final destination for most hikers. It is a small lake at the base of Square Top Mountain. On the plateau to the north is Murray Lake, the third and final lake. There is an obvious trail heading past Silver Dollar up to Murray. Since the trail to Silver Dollar is so short, continuing to Murray Lake is a must. The trail is steep and rocky but very short (0.6 miles). There are large boulders near the lake that make great backrests. Argentine Peak is visible to the northwest.


Murray Lake
Be advised that Guanella Pass is prone to wicked afternoon thunderstorms. I have been chased down the trail by lightening at least once if not twice at Murray Lake and another time at Square Top Lakes just on the other side of the ridge. The first time this happened we were lounging at Murray Lake against one of the afore-mentioned boulders. The sky above us was blue and there was not a cloud in the sky. We were startled out of our peaceful revelry by a clap of thunder so deep and nearby that it made our kidneys vibrate. We turned around to see a massive storm that was coming UP the valley from the east. It is a long way down to tree line from Murray Lake oh happy campers and lightening looks a lot thicker when viewed close up. Learn from our mistakes and always get a very early start when hiking off Guanella Pass, scan the sky in all directions, and don’t wait until you think the clouds are suitably gray before leaving. I can guarantee you your timing will be off.

Colorado Fox Squirrel: Friend or Foe?

Who can resist a pretty face? Certainly the Fox Squirrel (Sciurus niger) is irresistible. Its eyes are large and appealing, its fur is a ruddy Rufus brown, and its acrobatics are amusing to behold. Does the Fox Squirrel have a dark side though? The state of my Honey Locust tree might seem to suggest so.

Fox Squirrels are one of three species of squirrel in Colorado and the largest in North America. They are arboreal (live in trees) and diurnal (come out several times a day). Their diet consists primarily of seeds, which makes them the bane of backyard bird feeders. In a pinch they will eat insects, bird eggs, flowers, and buds, and when things get really bad, they will eat the bark off of trees. Enter my Honey Locust. Over the last two winters, a squirrel has been systematically eating the bark off of my Honey Locust tree. It is hard to say the level of damage it has done, but it certainly looks atrocious. I was advised to put hot pepper spray on the bark but that only resulted in the little cretin running around with a sombrero on.

I confess when I see my Honey Locust tree I get grumpy. It is certainly the potential financial loss that irks me so. Trees are expensive, and replacing twelve years worth of growth, shade, and privacy is very expensive indeed! At a visceral level, my resident squirrel seems to have taken on the persona of a gangbanger rampaging through the neighborhood, wantonly destroying property. I am ready to cart him off to squirrel juvie.

But then I see how the squirrel taunts both my cat and my dog. Its piercing screech and flapping tail fill me with glee, particularly knowing the cat is getting its comeuppance. My cat has a tendency to hunt for socks and when he finds one, he drags it around the house howling like a banshee. This behavior is particularly annoying at 3am. Anything that annoys the cat is fine with me.

I like squirrels because they have ‘tude! Before moving to this house, I lived in an apartment and lived on the top floor of a 3-story building. Somehow the squirrels managed to climb up the stucco, sit by the kitchen window, and annoy my cat. That was better than Survivor reruns.

I woke up recently one morning, however, thinking about the plague and realized that squirrels are RODENTS and VECTORS of disease. Just this month, 15 rodents were found dead in Denver, Arapahoe, and Jefferson Counties. We are talking the Black Death here, a disease that wiped out half of Europe. My favorite kitty tormentor could be carrying the means of ending civilization, as we know it. Can any pretty face survive that?

So what am I to do? I feel like a super delegate. Too bad the squirrel can’t buy my vote. I guess for now I’ll have to remain conflicted. Isn’t it amazing how much we are willing to overlook for a pretty face and fancy theatrics. It is the tonic of a jaded age.

One of these days I need to take my photographs and turn them into wildlife greeting cards.

Plymouth Mountain Trail

Distance: 6.9 miles RT
Elevation: 5,995-7,495 ft
Elevation Gain: 1,400 ft not including some recaptured elevation loss














Plymouth Mountain is part of the Deer Creek Canyon Open Space in southeastern Jefferson County and is a great shoulder season hike that is close to suburbia and hence perfect for a day when time is limited.

This was our first visit to the park. We tend to avoid Jefferson County Open Space because of their strict leash laws but today we thought we would try and see if we could control the dogs sufficiently to make it worthwhile. Not only did the dogs behave, but also the trail was so lush, so varied, and so filled with bucolic vistas that we may just have to try the leash thing again. One of our dogs, Abby, is a beefy gal who could pull the leg off a seated buffalo with sufficient provocation. Holding her on a leash is like playing Russian roulette with a shoulder dislocation.


View of an unnamed hill from the Meadowlark Trail. The Golden Eagle Trail ascends it
Dear Creek Canyon contains 12.8 miles of trails some with substantial elevation gain. Three of the trails are hiker only. The rest are multi-use. We started out on the Meadowlark Trail, which is 1.6 miles long and is one of the three hiker-only trails. The trail winds through scrub oak and brush with plenty of views of Lockheed Martin’s facility and the red rock fins that surround it. This trails is very narrow and it was difficult to pass the many runners and hikers we came across. The ground is soft, however, with minimal rocks, which makes it much better for runners. The Meadowlark Trail joins the Plymouth Creek Trail at a small bridge near the creek. There was sufficient water running to give the dogs a cooling drink, but the minimal nature of the flow heralded a dryer outing for those going later in the summer.


The junction of the Meadowlark and Plymouth Creek Trails
The Plymouth Creek Trail is very rocky with both loose rock and large slabs of jagged rock sticking out of the dirt. Right after the trail junction it ascends sharply upwards. At one point there are even steps of railroad ties to one side. This trail is filled with mountain bikers busting their quads to try and get up and over all the rocks. It is brutal, and many had to dismount and walk their way up. A few mountain biking Web sites call this section the “Wall of Shame”. About half a mile up, the trail does become less cumbersome, but it still ascends without a break. This part of the trip was in the pine forest that covers Plymouth Mountain itself. Even though we got an 8:30 am start, the shade was welcome. Plymouth Mountain trail is a circle, and intersects its creek side cousin in two places. If you take the first intersection, you’ll end up skirting the mountain to the left. This portion of the circle is 1.7 miles long while the other section is only 0.9 miles. The 1.7 mile portion has stunning views of the McMansions that stud Deer Creek Canyon as well as views of the Hogback Ridge, which shields the wealthy from the mere mortals who live in rest of Littleton. This section is a gradual climb on a softer trail. There are at least three switchbacks to tell you that you are indeed getting farther up the mountain.


Looking north from one of the overlooks on the Scenic View Trail
The trail to the top is creatively called the Scenic View Trail. There was no sign at the junction from this side of the circle but there was one from the other. There are several interesting rock formations and overlooks along this short 0.4 mile trail but the final destination is even more impressive. There are several rock formations to climb and a near 360-degree view of the surrounding areas. It was a pleasant place to linger.

Once back out on the Plymouth Mountain Trail, we took the shorter 0.9 mile route back down. This segment of the trail is much steeper and almost as rocky as the Plymouth Creek Trail. We were glad we chose to circumnavigate the mountain from left to right.

Finally, we returned to the bridge and decided to follow the Plymouth Creek Trail back to the car instead of retracing our steps along the Meadowlark Trail. With the exception of some interesting rocks farther down, this was not a good choice. The trail descends steeply to the point where we felt like we were stumbling and sliding downhill. The dogs were pulling us as well, which did not increase the ease of our decent.



Rocks and McMansions on the Plymouth Creek Trail
All in all, Deer Creek Canyon Open Space is a pleasant excursion. There are at least two more loops, each with its own scenic view, to entice us to return. The parking lot is large and there are well appointed restrooms. We plan to lead a Sierra Club hike there in the fall.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison: North Rim

Distance: 5 miles
Overlooks: 6



The North Rim of the Black Canyon is far more scenic than the South Rim. The canyon seems wider, the views of the river are more expansive, and there are far less people. There is no way from the South Rim to North Rim without a long drive, however so be emotionally prepared for a little road butt. To get to the North Rim, you can go through Hotchkiss in the north or head out Hwy 50 to the Blue Mesa Reservoir and then take Hwy 92 north. This is the better option. On the map Hwy 92 looks like a half-twisted slinky, and it is very curvy, but those curves wind through continuous stands of aspen and valleys with ballad inspiring views of purple mountains majesty. I have already put this route on my fall driving list. It should be phenomenal. The road to the park itself starts just south of Crawford and presents wide-angle views of the West Elk Mountains and Needle Rock. It traverses attractive farmland, well irrigated into an emerald green.


There are only 6 lookouts on the North Rim but we found ourselves lingering at them because their views were so expansive. On the South Rim we tended to bolt from overlook to overlook. There is a campground as well, which looked very pleasant. Most of the sites were beneath twisted Junipers, which created a sense of coziness as well as providing needed shade on a blazingly hot summer day.

The north side of the canyon stays colder and wetter compared to the south and hence is more eroded. This has resulted in islands of rock upon which conifers, ground cover, and lichens cling with dogged persistence.

The one thing that I found most striking about the Black Canyon is the continuous roar of the river, which reverberates against the rock and tingles the eardrums with an elemental agelessness. I leaned against the warm rock along the chasm view trail and closed my eyes. Stone holds the memories of ages past, and if you still your mind for just a moment you can hear it whisper its’ earthly secrets. It will tell you about the constancy of process and the inevitability of change. Erosion, the primary process that has shaped the canyon, is still occurring with unceasing relentlessness. The soft gravel of the Rim Drive, the rocks falling into the canyon, and much of the topography of the Western Slope are all witness to the power of cumulative change.

Just outside of the park is BLM land, which consists of a road trailing off into the sagebrush. It is obviously a much better area to run the dogs. We wanted to explore the Gunnison Conservation Area, and so did not stop there.

Half the fun of living in Colorado is exploring its’ varied geology. The Black Canyon of the Gunnison and the routes to and from it, are a great place to see erosion, sedimentation, and volcanism. All this education in the guise of stunning views just can’t be beat.