Coral Room: Strip Mall Chic

The Coral Room may be located in a strip mall in the Highlands, but that does not mean it should be ignored like some run down dry cleaners or VHS video store. From the moment I walked into the Coral Room I liked it. The bar is separated from the dining area, and there are booths as well as tables. The décor is a dark Art Deco with green painted tables, bright abstracts on the walls, and a clientele that appeared to be locals stopping by on the way home from work. The bar itself exclusively filled with women.

We dine early, which is advantageous at the Coral Room because their happy hour is something to go out of your way for. Wines by the glass, regardless of their original price are $5 and all appetizers are two for one. We ordered the coconut-encrusted tiger prawns with peanut sauce and spring rolls with spicy sauce. Both were excellent and when complimented by a nice New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc that would have normally sold for $10, were a scrumptious interlude indeed. Both the appetizers and the wine arrived quickly while our entrée took a while. We ordered scallops with pablano pepper puree and rice. The scallops were nice and light but the rice was a bit blah.

We were so enthused about our meal that we were determined to order dessert. Our waiter, an extremely fit gentlemen told us that the chocolate decadence cake was delicious but way to large. When we quickly ordered it, he flexed his deltoids and looked down his nose at us like we had just supersized our waistlines. We found this bit of snootiness annoying until we saw the cake. It was indeed too large even for two people. It was decadent however, and since we knew we would be out on a trail that weekend, did not worry about the calories that much. I should say that the cake came with some ice cream that was a bit too icy but all and all it was worth waddling home for.

If we lived closer to the Coral Room, we would be eating there frequently. The service was quick and friendly, the food was different and delicious, and the happy hour was a great bargain. So, the next time you are in the Highlands, be sure to stop in. You won’t regret it.

South Boulder Peak via Shadow Canyon

Trail Length: 6.7 miles RT
Elevation: 5,645- 8,549 ft
Elevation Gain: 3,039 ft
Critters: Mountain Blue Birds


Climbing South Boulder Peak is a great way to get in shape for summer hiking. The elevation gain is as substantial as many 14ers’ without the altitude. On this particular trip, the trail up Shadow Canyon was still covered with intermittent snow and ice, which made the journey slower than normal. The saddle and peak itself were completely covered in snow and a storm was raging in the mountains that sent periodic blasts down the canyon. One minute it was relatively warm and sunny and the next it was spitting snow. The schizophrenic weather was a good reminder as to why we carry so many layers even on the most benignly appearing days.

The ascent of South Boulder begins at the Eldorado Canyon/Mesa Trail trailhead. The hiker can ascend the Homestead, Towee, or Mesa Trails. This trip we chose the Homestead trail because it was a bit steeper and dogs are allowed on it off leash. This time of year, the terrain is subdued and drab but the sound of birds hinted at the coming Spring.

The Homestead Trail briefly intersects the Towee trail before it runs into the fire road, near the ruins of the Debacker cabin that leads Shadow Canyon. The road switch backs upwards and in its final curve to the north, dead-ends at the base of the canyon itself near the ruins of the Stockton Cabin with its large section of water pipe. This is where the trail gets interesting.
From this point on, it ascends upwards 1,620ft in one roughly one mile. The trail is dark with pine, encrusted with boulders and scree, and poorly defined. As I mentioned earlier, this time of year the trail can be covered in a mix of snow and black ice. We had taken off our yak tracks at the base of the canyon and should have put them back on again once we started to encounter more ice. With so much rock, however, we were hesitant to have them ripped apart on the ascent. Had we put them on, it would have saved a lot of slipping and sliding. I am not a trail runner comfortable with bolting down the trail in one long controlled fall, so at times I was practically clawing my way upward. There are no views per say in the canyon itself except for glimpse of the Devil’s thumb along the right wall about a third of the way up, and of valley below from the switch backs that start about two thirds of the way up. The saddle itself is flat and covered in more Ponderosa and Lodgepole pine. There was at least a foot of snow on the ground when we reached the saddle.

From the saddle, you can go to the east and ascend and additional 281 ft in 0.3 miles to Bear Peak or head to the west and ascend an additional 369 ft in 0.2 miles to South Boulder Peak. On this day, the trail to South Boulder Peak was covered in one foot of snow. It had been tracked before but the steepness of trail and the slushiness of the snow created an added challenge. When we had arrived at the saddle, the storm in the mountains was blasting us, but by the time we finished lunch and headed up to the peak, the skies were blue again. The summit is a small scree field with lots of nooks and crannies. The views from the peak are expansive and we could tell by the dark storm clouds to the north that our time on the top was going to be short. I stopped counting the number of times I have reached the top of a peak only to be chased off by weather. Metaphorically, I try to remind myself that life is a journey and not a destination but that his hard to do when, as in life, the journey is hard and the destination is sweet.

Mayflower Gulch Snowshoe

Distance: 4 miles RT to the Boston Mine, 6 miles RT to Gold Hill
Elevation: 10,996-11,520ft (Boston Mine) – 11,980 ft (Gold Hill).
Elevation Gain: 580 ft to the Boston Mine, 1,040 ft total to Gold Hill
Dogs: Off leash

Mayflower Gulch near Copper Mountain in Summit County is an easy snowshoe with some of the most spectacular views available. On this day, the entire trip, from our drive up to ascent to Gold Hill to the south of the Gulch was phenomenal. The sky was radiantly blue, the fresh snow looked like whipped marshmallow cream, and the temperatures were nearly idyllic.

The trailhead is only a few miles up Hwy 91 going towards Leadville from the entrance to Copper Mountain resort. Most people follow the actual road that parallels the creek while occasionally you’ll see others braving the drainage itself and its magnificent vista. I have done both. On this day, after a foot of fresh snow, we stuck to the road, which had already been partially tracked.

While in the trees, this trail has frequent views to the north of the various peaks that line the gulch. This gives the photographer many opportunities for framing shots and gives low landers equal excuses for some well-timed oxygen gathering. While this trail does not have much elevation gain, it does start at nearly 11,000 ft, which is a shock to anyone not used to it.

At the end of two miles, the trail exits the trees into the ruins of the old Boston mine, which consists of several old cabins and mine tailings. It is great to stop and dig a snow bench here and admire the view for a bit. The jagged spires of Mayflower are unique. On the left side of the bowl, if the sun is just right, you can see the substantial wire that descends from about 13,400 ft down to a mining ruin, hidden from this vantage behind a slope. Skiers often continue up the drainage for a view of this ruin and to ski down the slope that hides it. In summer, you can hike all the way up to the ruin and even scale the cliff face to the spot of an old generator.

During our lunch break we noticed two backcountry skiers cruising along the cornice to the south. They were jumping up and down on it, causing VW sized chucks to cascade downwards. The cornice at Mayflower is always well defined and extends for about a mile east to west. The western most extent hangs over a concave slope. We were waiting for our two skiers to transit this portion and start a major avalanche. They were smart, however and avoided that area. We decided to follow their tracks and gain the ridge and the spectacular views of Leadville to the south. In the early summer this area abounds with wildflowers and that ridge is a marvelous place to admire the rolling verdant meadows that seem to go on forever into the distance.

Even with the tracks made by the skiers, ascending the 500 or so feet of slope was slushy and slow. The final ten foot push over the cornice was particularly steep and even my MSRs had me sliding ignominiously downwards just as the skiers caught up to me on their second assent. With my camera bobbing in the air and no poles, I would have been better off digging steps with my shovel but fortunately the skiers sliced a shelf for me as they trudged by.

By this time we reached the ridge, we had lost our glorious blue skies to an approaching storm. It was windy and cold so we did not stay long. Spend a day up there in summer, and you won’t regret it. Snowshoe in winter on a sunny day and you will think you have died and gone to heaven.

Alexander’s of Hilton Head: Don’t Bother

The only pretense that Alexander’s of Hilton Head Island has of being a fine dining restaurant is its overly inflated prices and white table clothes. Everything else about it screamed banal. I was so disappointed in this experience that I have to vent my spleen bashing them. To be slightly fair, I don’t know if the fault lies with the restaurant or with the concierge at the Hilton Resort who sent me there with the promise of a delectable experience. Obviously, the word “fine” is relative.

To start with, the place was loud and decorated with motorcycles, boats, and stuffed fish. The waiters were dressed in jeans and Izod shirts. I had the pleasure of being placed along the route the staff took from the kitchen to the back of the long restaurant. At one point a waiter with a three-foot square plastic container filled with glasses waddled perilously close. Another waiter came zooming by with a two-foot stack of plates. The best however was the large group of teenagers in baggy clothing that filled up my tiny alley waiting to be taking into a thankfully distant room. This harried feeling was magnified by my waitress. Her brief visits were punctuated by rapid-fire dialogue in which my empty plates were persistently ignored.

Dinner consisted of a decent salad of bagged field greens, croutons, and one fourth of a tomato. It came with two dressing options, a creamy Parmesan or a vinaigrette. There was good sourdough on the table with spreadable butter. My entrée was a filet Oscar for $38.00 complete with crabmeat, hollandaise sauce, and green beans, carrots, squash, and a tropical flower. It normally came with potatoes, but I asked them to hold those and they brought out extra veggies instead, which was fine with me. The filet was cooked as I ordered it and was tender. I had never had a filet Oscar before and don’t know if I would order it again. The hollandaise overpowered the crab but was a nice addition to the veggies on the side.

Alexander’s stylizes itself as a restaurant for wine lovers. If you enjoy a particular wine, its associated liquor store will sell it to you. I was disappointed with the selection by the glass however, and the waitress brought out my wine in one of those glass measures and dumped it into my glass at the table. I hate those measuring cups. Restaurants that use them either do not trust their bartenders or they are stingy. When I order wine, I want to imagine that I am special and that my evident taste and refinement causes the management such paroxysms of joy that they give me an extra ounce. Actually seeing the bottle from which the wine is poured is an added benefit that happens far to infrequently.

Overall, Alexander’s is way over priced and very limited in its menu. I was much better off at Crazy Crab, which stylized itself as what it was, a touristy spot that served mountains of seafood at relatively reasonable prices.

Fall River Road Reservoir Snowshoe

Distance: 6 miles RT
Elevation: 9,580-10,810 ft
Elevation Gain: 1,230 ft

On our last two snowshoes to Summit County we have been stopped at the Eisenhower tunnel. We could not tell if there was an accident, hazardous cargo, or the whim of some whacked out CDOT employee causing this new phenomenon. The eastbound tunnel was closed then reopened, then closed, and then reopened etc. in a twenty-minute cycle designed to bring maximum road rage to all the cars and trucks clinging precipitously to the steep slope before the tunnel. We swore not to get stuck again and so opted for a trip on the eastern side of the divide. Trails on this side of the mountains have the advantage of avoiding traffic but have the disadvantage of less snow and more ice. Fall River Road was no exception.

The trail head starts at a sharp turn in the road around 6.8 miles, according to our guidebook, up Fall River Road. Note that this is the second sharp switchback and the distance, at least according our odometer was more like 8 miles. There is a large house right at this turn and cars parked willy-nilly along the road. Be advised that parking here is very limited. As it was one of the residents put a note on our car asking us not to park there at all. They should contact the publishers of “Snowshoeing Colorado” if they want deter folks from using this trail. Until it is unpublished, power hounds will continue to show up.


The trail is mostly in the trees with one mountain view around half way up at a switch back in the road. Presumably, you can see views of Mt. Bancroft and Mt. Perry but on this day, everything was enshrouded in clouds. At one point the trail seems to dead end into a wall of trees. At this point go to your left and head up through the trees some more. The trail is increasingly steep here and wind swept. There were quite a few areas of bare road and rock. You can tell by the twisted trees and ice sculptors at the reservoir itself that wind is not uncommon in this area. Lower down we had stripped down to our skivvies because of the warmth. By the time we reached the reservoir, we were fully loaded with goggles and facemasks. Lounging at the reservoir was not on the menu.

There did not appear to be any water in the reservoir and I have been told that the avalanche danger increases significantly beyond it so we turned around at this point. On a nice day, the peak behind the reservoir might have added to the view. On this day it just made it seem that much more cold.

Given the scarcity of views, the militant residents, and the limited snow, I am not sure I will do this trail again. Still, it was better than sitting on the couch eating Doritos.

Francie's Cabin Snowshoe

Trail Length: 4.8 miles RT
Elevation: 10,380ft to 11,264ft
Elevation gain: 896ft

Francie’s Cabin is part of the 10th Mountain Division’s hut system. It was built in 1994 and sits at 11,294 ft. It sleeps twenty in both summer and winter. On this date, low hanging clouds and periodic cascades of snow destroyed the views but not the cardiovascular benefits of the trail.

To get to the trail, head up Crown Drive, which is 2.1 miles from the middle of Breckenridge (Skill Hill Road). Don’t take the new Hwy 9 bypass if you want to track this mileage. Crown Hill Road becomes Spruce Creek Road. Follow this until it dead ends at the trailhead. On the left is the Mohawk Lakes trailhead and sign. Don’t go this way. Continue up Spruce Creek Road itself. You should see track at the far end of the parking area.

The trail begins in the trees and then opens up at the intersection of the Wheeler Trail at 1.3 miles. From this point the trail traverses meadows and hillsides with views to the south. There are two gates to pass along the way. It is 0.8 miles beyond the Wheeler Trail junction to the junction of the Crystal Creek trail, which comes in from the right. You are getting close at this point. The trail makes several sharp turns all the while heading upwards. You can see the cabin in the distance half way up the last slope. You’ll smell the wood smoke long before you see it.

Overall, the trip is not as exciting as many of the other trails in Summit County, and you can not take dogs anywhere near the cabin itself. Because of this we were unable to get close enough to the cabin to report on its layout or interior. Still for something different, it is worth checking out; just leave the dogs at home.

The Dish Bistro: Tawdry but Tasty

If you love neighborhood bistros that wow you with great food in an unpretentious atmosphere, then the Dish Bistro is for you. We were quickly enthralled with our meal and attentive service and certainly did not need to dress up to feel welcome. The Dish Bistro’s interior can best be described as upscale thrift shop with a touch of shabbiness. You certainly won’t find the well-dressed set here preening at the bar. The clientèle was local and casual. The white table clothes are hidden under brown paper and the plates, while different, each contained a rooster in that typical French country look. The walls contained abstract art and the lighting was those tacky gold plated chandeliers you see in track homes painted psychedelically blue.

The wine-by-the-glass list was limited and very generic but by the bottle it was better. I did see a David Bruce Petite Syrah listed.

We started with a plate of mussels cooked non-traditionally in a yellow curry sauce with red grapes and sliced fennel. Warm French bread made slurping up the tasty sauce that much easier. Our entrée was a sliced duck breast covered in fois gras butter, spaghetti squash mixed with duck confit and greens. The portion was a bit small to split but after feeding on the voluminous mussels, we felt full and actually skipped dessert.

The Dish Bistro has a small private dinning room downstairs. To get to it, you have to traverse part of the kitchen and descend a rickety set of stairs. This room is tawdry but certainly intimate. I would not dine there but if you are looking for room where no one would look to find you, this is the place. You can pretend you are refuges from the Nazi occupation of France.

Banff Film Festival...World Tour

Every February, outdoor lovers in Boulder flock in droves to the Boulder Theatre to what the Banff Film Festival World Tour. These movies always make me feel inadequate. It is not just the extreme athleticism displayed in 90% of the movies, but the heart wrenching environmental stories they always manage to toss in. Every year there is a movie about women who gives up both comfort and health to save either native peoples or some wild animal. Undoubtedly, there are people all over the world who choose to live off the grid for some good cause, but why should such activism come at such a price. Two years ago the protagonist’s liver and kidneys were failing because tainted water she had consumed in Nepal. At the end of the movie we received a brief note that she is on death’s door and are left wondering until next year how it turned out. This year, our featured Artemis turned out to have a brain tumor by the end of the flick. Perhaps the filmmakers find such pathos inspiring, but I think it is a downer. Are there no activists out there that go to lead happy, healthy lives? Such stories just hammer home the point that third world countries are dangerous and you are better off vacationing at Club Med. Surely, that can’t be helping tourism. Cynicism aside though, most of the films do inspire you to get off the couch and get out there. There are gear vendors in the hallway to show you how and a raffle of free goodies at intermission. Next year, be sure to grab a ticket. If you love the outdoors, you will love these films.

I do have one final rant, directed to the organizers of this event. Move the thing to a real theatre instead of the Boulder Theatre. That venue is the worst possible place to hold a fest like this. The straight back seats are the most uncomfortable in the world. This year we thought we had a system by bringing our thermarest butt pads and down jackets we could tuck behind us for back support. Even with these improvements, our backsides were still throbbing by intermission and all the blood in our bodies had drained into our feet. I could barely walk by the end. I love this film fest, but after three years of physical torture, I will have to give it serious thought whether I want to put myself through it again next year. A larger venue would also give more room for vendors and patrons to mingle. So World Tour organizers get smart and find us another venue.

Seven: An Eclectic Taste Sensation

Don’t let Boulder’s Seven’s dark black interior and uncomfortable straight back booths seats deter you from trying this wonderful restaurant. I would classify it as Asian/South American fusion. I always worry about fusion restaurants whose chefs assume that dumping two ingredients from two different parts of the world will equate to something wonderful. Frequently, the flavors don’t blend and you are left with a schizophrenic palate screaming for lithium. Seven, on the other hand, was like an hour at the Boulder Creek Festival. Its cultures weave in an out of each other in a kaleidoscope.

With us for this event was a bonafide vegetarian, and Seven boasts several tasty looking vegetarian dishes. She started with the organic green salad and a tofu dish with large chunks of tofu wallowing with veggies in a curry sauce. I daringly took a bite of tofu and pronounced it edible even for the likes of a carnivore like me.

I, on the other hand, started with the Mahi Mahi Cerviche, which came decoratively perched in a large martini glass. The fish was soaked in a citrus juice and was served with ginger “tostones” (i.e. chips). The highlight, however, was the pork tenderloin, which came with a medley of diced Asian vegetables in a Sake sauce. Extra sake came on the side in a sherry glass glued to the plate by a wad of wasabi. Dripping the sake over the pork gave it terrific flavor. My splitting dinner partner and I fought voraciously over each morsel.

The restaurant was dead on the cold Tuesday evening we went which enabled executive chef Diego Conconati to come out and chat with us. He was friendly and shy but obviously passionate about his little culinary niche.

The bar matron was very talented in mixing up all those bizarrely named South American drinks like Caipirinhas and Mojitos. There were several worshippers glued to their stools at the bar that parallels the tables.

So Boulderites, don’t forget Seven when wandering around the Pearl Street Mall. It is situated across from the Daily Camera building on the west side of the mall. How rowdy and noisy it gets on the weekends you will have to discover for yourself. Bag a table though and avoid the booth seats unless your body naturally conforms to right angles. If it does, this kind of fusion is probably too out there for you anyway. Maybe we’ll see you because we plan to go back.

Panzano: So So

For February, my fine dining club went to Panzano in Denver. The boys really liked the experience while the girls found it only so so. This is not a place I will be racing to get back to even though there were a few tasty items.

The group started with the antipasto platter, which was quite large. It contained olives, haystack goat cheese marinated in olive oil, baked garlic, and a variety of pestos. There was plenty to share and the items were different from your standard antipasto, which I always find appealing.

The best part of the entire meal was Panzano’s signature grilled Caesar salad. I actually ordered this by accident and was so glad I did. The head of Romaine is placed on the grill and scalded. Who knew that burnt lettuce could taste so good? I wonder how they figured this one out? Did a waiter accidentally drop the lettuce on the grill? Voila! C’est magnifique! Next time I burn something at home I’ll have to give that one a try. “Really, I am just trying to come up with the next burnt masterpiece…really.”

Our entrees consisted of an organic NY strip on a bed of pesto, pasta, and a red sauce. It came with a truffle-oil custard that was more interesting than the steak itself. This entrée was the special and was the best we ordered. I ordered lamb cannelloni that sounded inviting with its pomegranate seeds, walnuts, and goat cheese. In reality it was marginal. None of the flavors blended being discreet chunks of things. The portion was too small to split as well. Four bites and I was done. Our final entrée was the veal scallopini, which was generous in its portions. It came with mashed potatoes. Our officially Italian diner raved that it was the best he had had. I found it bland, which confirms that you need to read these reviews with a grain of salt. There is something for everyone out there.

We ordered 4 desserts, a gelato collection, a sorbet collection, a chocolate tart, and a tiramisu. Both the sorbet and the gelato were home made and flavorful. The tart was uninspiring even to a chocoholic. The tiramisu was by far the best and normally I dislike that dessert. I only got a bite because the owner was hording it all for himself, but that one bite was creamy and sinful. I can almost forgive him for hording…almost.

Panzano’s ambiance is non-descript with tables and booths stretching back in a long rectangle. The walls are covered with small hand painted oils. We ended up at a large circular table near the open kitchen. Here the girls and the boys again differed. The girls found this location to be noisy, full of traffic and unpleasant. The boys enjoyed feeling like they were at the center of things and reveled in the bustle. Our waiter seemed condescending to me but the boys found him charming.

Panzano consistently gets great reviews for its northern Italian fare. I am quite picky and rarely rave over Italian food so my critique may be terribly biased. Ask for a quiet table and choose carefully and your experience may have been better than mine.